I spent my second morning in Quebec City catching and tagging striped bass. It's one of the many science programs that is happening aboard the Canada C3 expedition. (You can read about it in my "Through The Porthole" post here.) We were all back aboard Polar Prince for lunch, and then we all went ashore for the rest of the afternoon and evening. We divided into two groups, and I went with the group who opted to volunteer at SPOT (Sympathique Place Ouverte a Tous).
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| Photo by Mike Sudoma |
SPOT is an initiative by students at the School of Architecture at Laval to transform a vacant city lot in to a fun, free community garden/market/park for the summer. It was the day before it opened, and we were there to help them get everything ready for their first day.
When we showed up, the place was a-buzz with people painting, building, landscaping, you name it. The organizers assigned us the task of re-potting a bunch of plants, and the C3 people dove right in. After the non-stop adventures we'd been having since arriving on the ship, I think we were ready to get our gardening zen on.
The go-getter attitude was really impressive in this group of people. I don't think I've ever been among so many folks who were willing to do anything, anytime, at the mere hint of a suggestion it needed doing. It was great!
When our time was up at SPOT, a school bus came and picked us up and we were reunited with the rest of our shipmates. We were bound for Wendake, an indigenous community about a half hour drive from Quebec City. The first place they took us was the Hotel-Musee Premieres Nations. Man, is this place impressive.
We were met at The "Hotel-Musee" by our guide, Wendake Cultural Agent, Marcel Godbout. The Hotel-Musee is a museum and a 4-star boutique hotel in one complex. When you walk through the front doors, the first thing that hits you is the smell. Wonderful tones of sweet grass and sage fill the air, and instantly your spirit is calmed and uplifted. The museum contains some of the most exquisite Huron-Wendat artifacts and sacred items dating back hundreds of years. There is no photography allowed in the museum, so you'll just have to take my word for it. Or better yet, make a visit and see for yourself. I would go back in a heartbeat. My C3 roommate, Lyne, lives a few hours drive from Wendake, and while we were walking through the community she told me that she goes and stays at the Hotel-Musee often, by herself, as an escape and a retreat, and to work and write. When she leaves, she feels renewed. It is a special place of peace and beauty.
Behind the museum, the grounds open up to a small pond and grassy area, followed by a replica of a traditional Huron-Wendat long house.
The long house is huge, and is surrounded by a tall fence made of skinny trees. I suspect the fence had a dual purpose - for security and to keep the winds out. Inside the long house, the middle is open and there are three platforms on either side... essentially an open-concept three-story house. The platforms had animal furs spread out all over them - bear, coyote, wolf.
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| Photo by Mike Sudoma |
We were welcomed in to the long house by our tour guide, and told we could sit anywhere, including the upper levels. At least half the group took the opportunity to climb the ladders to the first platform and snuggle in on one of the furs and watch the fires. As our guide spoke about the traditions and the long house, we all got very comfortable. So comfortable, in fact, that when our guide asked that we continue on outside NOBODY MOVED. I think we all had the same thought: this place is so cozy, so welcoming, so comfortable... I'll linger a bit and catch up with the group in a few minutes. (This strategy only works if the rest of the group isn't thinking the same thing!) At our collective reluctance to leave, our tour guide let us stay in the long house a bit longer. Andrea sang us a rattle song, and that was really special. Spending just a few minutes in the long house made me understand why this was the preferred shelter of a whole nation of people. It was just so... homey. There was something about the long house that was very reminiscent of our ship, both spatially and in spirit: a place to be among friends and family where we are safe and happy.
Eventually, we did pry ourselves out of the long house, and toured outside a bit more. The grounds are lovely, and include outdoor firepits and picnic tables. The Hotel-Musee offers guests the opportunity to spend the night in the long house, and I think they do weddings and parties too. It would be so fantastic to be able to spend the night there.
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| These pictures don't capture the awesomeness of this place at all! |
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| Traditional Wendat sunflower soup. This is one of the few photos of food I've ever taken. It was THAT good. |
While we ate, Marcel gave us a presentation on the Huron-Wendat language, and the conservation efforts that the community has undertaken to preserve it. We were joined by one of the teachers in the community, who was a bit late because she was at a year-end concert at the school. Her knowledge of the language, and her easy-going and enthusiastic way of sharing that knowledge was really inspiring. The translations were interesting, pretty much all of them routed in the feminine, sort of like le and la in French, except it was all la and no le. It really made me think about the importance of language how it permeates culture.
Here she is, singing a beautiful Huron-Wendat song. Her voice was incredible.
I stupidly didn't write down her name. If you know it, please message me!
And here is Marcel giving us a song. He was a gifted singer too!
After our wonderful time at the community centre, we boarded the bus and headed back to the ship. As soon as we were back, the crew slipped her lines and Polar Prince sailed away from the dock, carrying on this incredible journey down the St. Lawrence.
Another terrific day. Day 6... Wendake... it was really sinking in how big and beautiful this country is.
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