Day 3 – Kahnawa:ke – Monday, June 12, 2017

One of the journey participants for Leg 2 was Kaniehtiio Horn-Batt, a Mohawk woman and a resident of the Kahnawa:ke Reserve just across the St. Lawrence River from Montreal. We spent the morning briefing on the ship talking to Tiio about her community. She told us about what it was like for her to grow up on the reserve with a Mohawk rights activist for a mother, and a white CSIS lawyer for a father. She gave us a brief history of the community, told us that the Mohawks are well known for being iron workers, especially right across the border in the US, and she told some incredible stories about her mother, Kahn-Tineta Horn, standing up for herself and her community. These aren’t my stories, so I won’t tell them here. Tiio says she is working on a podcast, to get her mum to share her stories with the world, and I hope she puts it out soon. A quick Google search for Tiio’s mum comes back with about a kajillion results, so you can learn all about her and her astonishing life, and I encourage you to do so.

Tiio spoke about the Oka Crisis of 1990, and how Kahnawa:ke stood in solidarity with the Mohawk people living at Kanesatake, AKA Oka when the protest occurred.

Just to give you a quick refresher: Kanesatake is a small native community west of Montreal, and like so many Native communities had (has) land-claim disputes. The owners of a 9-hole golf course on/near Kanesatake land wanted to expand the golf course from 9 holes to 18 holes. The expansion was to be built on a piece of disputed Mohawk land that included a burial ground. The Mohawks set up a barricade to halt construction. The police and then the army were brought in to shut down the protests. There was violence. I can’t possibly go in to all the details here, but you can get a much better refresher here, and there are lots of resources online.

After our briefing aboard ship, we all got on a bus and headed to Kahnawa:ke, to see the places Tiio spoke about. One of the great things about the C3 Expedition is the flexibility. Tiio suggested we start by taking a swim at the quarry, so that got added to the day’s agenda. In fact, it was our first stop. Apparently, this quarry was operational decades ago, until they hit a spring and it filled up with water. Now it’s the most tranquil swimming hole with crystal clear water. We would never have known the quarry was there if Tiio hadn’t been with us. It’s a hidden gem.

Our bus driver, Mitch, was also from Kahnawa:ke, and after the swim he and Tiio gave us a great tour of the community.

Mitch presented the C3 "Word Of The Day" that day. Photo by Martin Lipman.

They pointed out where the Mohawks from Kahnawa:ke set up their protest in solidarity with the people at Oka, and showed us where the army moved in and shot teargas at the protestors. Mitch has this massive scar on his forearm where the skin had burnt off when a teargas canister hit him. There is a hospital on the reserve, and a senior citizens complex adjacent to where the protest took place. The day the teargas was deployed the wind was blowing toward the hospital, and the hospital staff and patients were dosed with it. The people decided it was too dangerous to allow their elders to stay in the community, so they evacuated the seniors’ home and moved them out of town until it was safe for them to come back. Tiio and Mitch drove us down the evacuation route, a road lined with high-sided banks that goes under an overpass. White people stood on the banks and overpass and threw rocks at the old people as they were being evacuated... while the RCMP watched.

I know there are two sides to every story, but what kind of monsters throw rocks at old people? What kind of monsters deploy teargas on a hospital?  All this for a golf course? A GOLF COURSE?!?!? Seriously?  Think for a minute. What would happen if a developer came in built a golf course on your grandmothers’ grave? How would you feel? And to think the developer had the weight of the Canadian Armed Forces behind him. And public support not necessarily for the golf course, but against you. Think for a minute what that must be like.

One of my shipmates, James Raffan, wrote this really great piece about the visit to Kahnawa:ke, Tiio, and Oka. I would encourage you to stop reading this and go read that. He is far more eloquent than I can be on the subject. Plus, JR is a cool guy and you should get some exposure to him. 

There were some other great highlights on the informal bus tour of Kahnawa:ke, including stopping by Tiio’s mom’s place. After hearing the stories about her in the morning briefing, we practically begged Tiio to let us meet her. She boarded the bus to thunderous applause. What an honour to meet Mrs. Horn! Seriously, Google this woman. Her story is amazing!

Photo by Martin Lipman

As the bus tour continued, we drove past a small building with a few people standing outside and Tiio said, “Everyone look to the right! Look at those people!” She then explained that the small building, about the size of shed, is the local poutinerie. You walk up to the window and order your poutine, and then you hang out on the porch and eat it. In the Maritimes we have fish-and-chip stands, but Quebec? They do it up right! Anyway, the locals all call this poutine stand “The Porch Of Shame”, and apparently if you’re willing to eat at The Porch Of Shame (and who wouldn’t?) it is the right of anyone driving by to gawk at you. HAHAHA!!! I wish I had gotten a picture, but we drove by too fast and I was doing my part by having a good gawk! True confession: I wish we had stopped there instead of going to the quarry. If I had known there was a Porch Of Shame that served poutine I would have foregone the swim and walked there!

Next up, we visited the Karihwanoron Immersion School. Karihwanoron means "precious words", and the children who go there do all their studies in Mohawk. The children started the tour with the Mohawk Prayer of Thanksgiving or the "words that come before all else", in Mohawk of course. They begin and end every day with the prayer, which they recited based on a series of brightly coloured pictures around the classroom.

This, of course, was very useful to the largely non-Mohawk speaking group of listeners they were showing around. The things they were thankful for? The sky, the water, the plants, the animals, the people, etc. Such a simple and beautiful concept. Why don’t we settler-people do that in our schools? 

Next we made a visit to the Kahnawa:ke Environment Protection Office (KEPO) where we learned about the St. Lawrence Seaway and what a shitty deal it was for the community. Opened in 1959, the Seaway is a man-made channel that runs alongside the sections of the St. Lawrence that are too shallow for large ships to traverse. The Seaway cut a path through Kahnawa:ke, effectively cutting off the community (whose name means, ironically now, "place of the rapids") from the river.

Many homes and land were expropriated to build the Seaway, many of them given over unwillingly by the residents. Tiio’s great-grandfather had to be physically removed from his house the day the bulldozers showed up.  Try to imagine you have a gorgeous waterfront property. You can swim, you can fish, you can just set and look if you want to. And then to be told it is being taken away because industry giants need it more than you. Devastating. We have similar stories here in Nova Scotia (Shout out to Africville! Shout out to the fisherman who lost their livelihoods when the Canso Causeway was built!) and it is no less outrages than what we heard at Kahnawa:ke. Ah, the 1950s. What a time to be alive! The river was once a huge part of the community's recreation and culture, and the Kahnawa:ke Environment Protection Office is looking at ways to restore that connection to the water. There is a small bay that comes in to Kahnawa:ke from the St. Lawrence River, and the Environment Protection Office has put together a plan to make the bay useful to the community. As the water from the river enters the bay, its velocity slows dramatically causing any sediment being carried to settle out. This in turn causes the bay to be choked by vegetation, rendering it useless to the community as a recreational water body. No fishing, no swimming, no boating. The community is working with a consultant (AECOM) and has developed the first phase of a remediation program. Now for the hard part: the band needs to come up with several million dollars to implement the program. Being a field tech, I found the presentation and site visit fascinating, but I wasn't sure what my fellow C3ers were thinking. Turns out, they were all fired up too! In fact, there were brainstorming discussions for days afterward aboard ship about how KEPO might find the funds to get the ball rolling.  If anyone has ideas after reading this and might be able to help, contact me and I will put you in touch with the folks at KEPO.

We headed back to the ship after that, and had a wonderful dinner. Finally, around 6pm, after three incredible days in montreal, we pulled away from the dock!  We were underway, bound for Trois-Rivieres!

That evening, as we sailed down the St. Lawrence, we had our evening briefing in the open hanger, watching the river slip away behind the ship.

There was so much to talk about, after the day we had full of beauty and pain. So many of us were so shocked at the things we had learned about the systematic mistreatment of indigenous people in Canada. Hearts and minds opened, some for the first time. Andrea Menard, the wonderful and talented Metis singer and actor, was one of our journey participants for the leg, and made an excellent point that broke the whole thing open for me:

White people don’t know about the history of the First Nations, but the indigenous people think that we know and we just don’t care.  

Read that sentence again. It’s important. When we all understand that statement, reconciliation will begin. 

Day 2 - Montreal, Quebec - Sunday, June 11, 2017

Day 2, like Day 1 was jam packed. We started the day with a guided walking tour of the The Village, the LGBTQ2 neighborhood of Montreal. Being as it was Sunday morning, the streets were busy but not packed. Our guide spoke about safe spaces the community has created for at-risk LGBTQ2 youth, and the history and evolution of the neighborhood. The main drag (pardon the pun) is decorated with ball-streamers all summer. Very festive, and in a rainbow motif!

  

One stop on our walk was this small public park, called the "Parc de l'Espoir" (Park of Hope) memorializing members of the community who have died of AIDS.

The monuments were designed for people to sit on, and also to look like coffins. The space currently contains a public piano, open to anyone to sit down and tickle the ivories. These pianos are all over Montreal, and we saw them in other towns and cities we visited as well. As we approached this park, there was an older man playing. He was shirtless, had a deep tan, and was pretty rough looking; he almost certainly lived on the street. He was playing Bach, one of the Goldberg variations, and it was really beautiful. When he was done, he got up and left to a smattering of applause, and another person immediately sat down and started playing a pop-jazz number. 

I'm pretty sure this isn't the take-away our tour guide had in mind, but the stand out thing for me in some sections of this district were the drug addicts, wandering around like zombies. We saw heroin being bought and sold, right out in the open. There was a police presence, but they were kind of just co-existing with the addicts and the dealers. Being from a small city that is very conservative, it's jarring to see that kind of drug abuse up close and personal. I know heroin and hard drugs exist in Halifax (and let's face it, everywhere), it's just that it's not nearly so open and acceptable in the small towns as it is in big cities.

After lunch we went to the Redpath Museum on the campus of McGill University. The museum is pretty old school (even for a museum) and has some incredible fossils and taxidermy, and some actual Egyptian mummies.

C3 was invited to do a presentation at the museum, Leg 2's first "Ship-To-Shore" event, Our Chief Scientist for Leg 2, Dr. Lyne Morisette, spoke in the museum auditorium about the various science programs happening on C3, and how they will serve to broaden our understanding of the ecosystem from coast to coast to coast. After the talk, we all went outdoors to the courtyard beside the museum to have an informal chat about the expedition to anyone who happened by and was interested. C3 staff rolled out these giant floor maps of Canada, showing the route of the expedition. Next thing you know, kids and adults are pointing out where they are from, places they've visited, etc. It was really fun, and luckily for me the language barrier was minimal in Montreal.

During the map presentation, some of us broke off from the main group and walked a short distance to another area on campus where we got a brief presentation on the historical presence of indigenous people in and around the Montreal area from Kakwirano:ron Cook. (I assume he's a professor, but don't quote me on that!)

The inscription reads, "Near here was the fortified town of Hochelaga visited by Jacques Cartier in 1535, abandoned before 1500. It contained 50 large houses, each lodging several large families who subsisted by cultivation and fishing."   Woah, woah, woah... cultivation? I legit did not know that First Nations were farmers. How could I not know this? I assumed all indigenous people in Canada were hunter/gatherers. It's such a basic fact about a whole population, and I had no idea. I wish I could go back in time to that afternoon and ask a lot more questions. I wish we learned this stuff in school!
The discussion around this monument centered around two things: 1) whether the area was actually abandoned as the settler explorers said it was, and 2) how long it took for this monument to be moved from a corner of the park to near a walkway. Apparently the monument had been sitting for years, facing a fence, and few people knew of its existence. It took eight years for Mr. Cook and other university staffers to have it moved, as it was seen as being controversial to acknowledge the presence of indigenous people on the land currently occupied by McGill. Eight years... now there's some bureaucracy at work. Yikes. There is a movement afoot to have the plaque updated, but don't hold your breath! 

We were back on the ship for dinner, and then we had a very special treat. The Association Latino-Américaine de Montréal came aboard ship for a showcase concert on the quarterdeck. They performed traditional songs in traditional garb and it was a really great time. The Leg 2 musicians (Heather Rankin, Andrea Menard, and Alex Cuba) each got up and performed as well. The weather was perfect and it was a really beautiful evening.

Day 1 – Through the Porthole – Paddle and The Legacy Room

One of the themes of the Canada C3 Expedition is reconciliation. One of the ways C3 is facilitating this is by setting aside a very special space aboard ship called the Legacy Room. In fact, it is called The Gord Downie & Chanie Wenjack Legacy Room. "This room was created for the Canada C3 Expedition as an intentional and safe space to discuss reconciliation and reconcili-ACTION. The Legacy Room idea was conceived by Nova Scotia Assembly of First Nations (AFN) Regional Chief Morley Googoo, who partnered with the Gord Downie & Chanie Wenjack Fund to create this national call to action to organizations to create space for reconciliation." (Canada C3)  The room is full of beautiful sacred objects and gifts; sage and sweet grass for smudging, a handmade drum, a wampum belt, handmade lacrosse sticks. I will share more about the Legacy Room in another post, as it is one of the most significant places I've ever had the honour of being welcomed into. But for now, I want to tell you about my first visit to the Legacy Room, and one very special object that is kept there: Paddle to the Sea.

"Based on Holling C. Holling's book of the same name, Paddle to the Sea is Bill Mason's 1966 film adaptation of the classic tale of an Indigenous boy who sets out to carve a man and a canoe. Calling the man "Paddle to the Sea," he sets his carving down on a frozen stream to await spring's arrival. The film follows the adventures that befall the canoe on its long odyssey from Lake Superior to the sea." (NFB) The film adaptation is 28 minutes long, and is the most watched NFB film ever, and for good reason. It's terrific. If you haven't seen it (or if you need a refresher, or if you just want to watch it again) you can find it here.

Now, hold on to your hats, people. Paddle, as in THE Paddle to the Sea, is going along on the Canada C3 adventure. He stays in the Legacy Room.  My first night aboard ship, after the excitement of the day, I went into the Legacy Room to quiet my mind, and there he was. Sitting quietly in his little plexiglass display case. Expedition leader, Geoff Green was also in the Legacy Room when I wandered in. I half-whispered, "Oh, there's Paddle!" I couldn't believe my eyes!  And then (and may I just say I was completely unprepared for this) Geoff says to me, "Yes, there's Paddle. Would you like to hold him?" Then he took Paddle out of the box and handed him to me.

Such a special little object, and I was holding him in my hands. 

I had just had an incredible day with the finest people in a beautiful city on Day One of an amazing journey. And now this. It was all too much and I was overcome with emotion. Yep, I cried.  Wouldn't you?

Here we are, after I had composed myself.

I still can't believe this happened. I can't believe I held Paddle. Anything is possible. 

Day 1 - Montreal Quebec - Saturday June 10, 2017

The day finally arrived!

C3 Participants were expected at the ship, docked in the Old Port, at noon. We arrived, one by one, and the excitement was palpable. Every one of us was so thrilled to be there – even those trepidatious few among us known to suffer from seasickness. (As it turns out, the water and weather cooperated nicely along the whole of Leg 2. Smooth sailing meant no hanging over the leaward side for any of us.) Introductions were made, and the small but mighty Nova Scotia contingency quickly became known for our rowdiness enthusiasm. Among the participants, there were five Nova Scotians: Carole MacLean (also from Dartmouth), James Raffin, aka JR (Pugwash), Heather Rankin of The Rankin Family (Mabou), Matt Krizan (our celebrity chef for the leg, from Mateus in Mahone Bay), and myself. Not to mention part of the ship's crew were from Nova Scotia, and all but a handful were from the east coast, mostly Newfoundland. (More on the ship and crew later.)

Day 1 saw us getting to know each other and the ship.  There were two per cabin, and me and my roomie were assigned to the cabin formerly inhabited by the bosun. The cabins were small, but very comfortable and cozy, and we had more than enough space for the short spell we were aboard.

I was assigned to bunk with Dr. Lyne Morisette, Chief Scientist for Leg 2. Lyne is one of the most remarkable women I have ever met, and an expert on marine mammals. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven! Not only is Lyne exceptionally accomplished, she is also just about the nicest, coolest, person you will ever meet. Lyne travels the world doing research and advocating for the protection and conservation of marine habitat, but she does so with an attitude of compassion for people and political savvy. Check out her 2016 Ted Talk,  La résilience : des écosystèmes aux humains.  And here we are on Day 5, getting dolled up for dinner with the Prince of Monaco. (Yes, really! More on that later...)

Lunch was followed by our safety drills, and then we had a local historian visit the ship and speak about the Old Port and the impacts to the environment in and around the St. Lawrence River caused by infrastructure built for Expo '67. After that, we went to Les FrancoFolies where we saw 2Freres, who are rumoured to be the next big thing out of Quebec. Les FrancoFolies is an enormous outdoor rock concert at Place des Arts, attended by thousands of people every weekend all summer. Canada C3 was invited to view the concert from a loge, aka the VIP area looking down over the street and a great view of the stage. 

After that (yes, there was more to come!) we were invited to view Montreal Avudo, a completely mesmerizing 30-minute multi-media show about the history of Montreal, and celebrating the 375^th anniversary of its founding. The show took place on the water, and consisted of short historical vignets projected onto a giant architectural sculpture and on to the water itself which was sprayed into the air in various configurations creating a 3D effect. It was amazing, and my words don't come anywhere near describing it. This amateur video also doesn't really do it justice, but it will give you a better sense of the magnitude of this amazing show.

Finally, Day 1 was done. I've taken entire vacations where I do less than what we did on that first day. One thing was certain though, right from the start: the people who were selected to join Leg 2 were the absolute best. Over the next several days, we would bond. As cheesy as it sounds, they feel like family, and that was a feeling I got right from the get-go. 

What is Canada C3?

​Back in March, I heard a story on CBC radio about an expedition that would be a signature project of Canada 150. The premise was that a re-purposed former-Coast Guard icebreaker would undertake a 150 day voyage, exploring all three of Canada's coasts: Atlantic, Arctic, and Pacific… hence the name Canada C3. The ship would leave Toronto on June 1^st, sail to the Maritimes via the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence River, then head north around Newfoundland and wind up in Victoria via the Northwest Passage. As the kids say, EPIC!

I won't rehash all the particulars of Canada C3 here, as they do a thorough job of it on their website. If you want a quick primer, click here.

The purpose of the expedition is broad: to tell the story of Canada's coastlines through exploration, storytelling, art, music, and science. Invited participants include scientists, visual artists, journalists, musicians, poets, and actors. In addition to the invited experts in their respective fields, applications to participate were being accepted from everyday Canadians as well. The application process was fairly rigorous, and included writing two essays and submitting an audio/video recording. I put my package together and submitted it, and miracle of miracles! I was invited to join Leg 2 as a "Journey Participant". Leg 2 would start in Montreal on June 10, and end near the other end of the St. Lawrence River in Baie-Comeau on June 20.

I could not have been more excited or grateful. Although I didn't really know what to expect, I was so looking forward to being a part of this incredible journey. No matter what happened, I knew I was participating in something special. Every expectation was exceeded beyond my wildest dreams. I had no idea I was about to embark on a transformative voyage, but that is exactly what happened to me, in just eleven short, magical days.

The Canada C3 Communication Team put together this beautiful video: Leg 2 in Review Have a peek!